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Show Profile  Jymbo Posted: 24 April 2010, 6:23 PM  
Yes DM, same here in Bendigo, we have a lot of 1st time course setters, so that is why we use CONDES, may be simple, but its not only for simple PPL

Show Profile  addison Posted: 25 April 2010, 4:59 AM  
I have nothing against Condes. I prefer OCAD - I think it is much smarter. But Condes allows for a club license and most find it easy to use.

Can Condes export as PDF?

Show Profile  DMjunior Posted: 25 April 2010, 4:10 PM  
Nah simon i dont think it can, i have problems with being able to see control circles in condes when you print from that but this changes when you use ocad.

Show Profile  The Map Guy Posted: 25 April 2010, 6:10 PM  
Try File\Common Settings\Course overprint in Condes and tweak the line thickness if this is a problem DMjunior. You can alter the line/circle colour too.

Show Profile  Michael Posted: 29 April 2010, 6:18 AM  
The Fuzzby mystery: the course planner advises:

The Relays maps were printed by someone other than our usual printer man and on a different printer from all the other Nationals maps. John had a printer breakdown during the week before the Nationals and, in order to meet deadlines, he subcontracted my batch out.

Seems highly likely this was the reason. Might be unavoidable in an emergency, but shows a need to check any new printing service under a magnifier before depending on it.

Show Profile  Michael Posted: 29 April 2010, 9:00 AM  
I've used rubber-sheeting transformation on a real job and its very impressive.

A park map that had add-ons with the inevitable slight bend at the join, and as usual wasn't true to scale or north either. My reference was a framework from the LINZ orthophoto, it has to be opened as a template as the transform process transforms any symbol that you want to regard as "true" (it doesn't respect "protect".)

The most useful thing is that you draw a boundary around a bit at a time and then play with that. If it doesn't go according to plan you simply undo and put in some more points either to drag something or tie it down where it is. And try again. Doesn't do everything of course, but much faster than cutting the map into bits as I did for the Bottle Lake overhaul.

Show Profile  Michael Posted: 30 April 2010, 5:18 AM  
Ahhh jumped the gun there, apologies to John the printer and his subcontractor, the Naseby problem occurred BEFORE the pdf files got to you. The course planner has sent me one of the actual pdfs for the relays and in Acrobat on high magnification (a) the control descriptions and course markings look fine (b) the map looks terrible. So must be something in the way his particular version of OCAD 10 course setting opens the map file or passes it on to the pdf when it exports.

I've been through the process with the map as delivered (version 8.00) and OCAD course setting (version 10.2.4) and it produces a pdf that looks fine under high magnification. Can't do any more than flag that there's a possible problem here. Easily checked before sending the pdf away.

Show Profile  Bryan Posted: 14 May 2010, 2:38 AM  
I've been using pentel colour 0.7 leads for mapping for a few years
and have only just recently run out of green. I also have plenty of 0.5 green leads in Staedler. The difference is the 0.5 leads break a lot and can only be used in dry weather. Unfortunately I'm currently mapping in a place where it's wet quite often and really need waterproof colours - I've had to use orange for the green areas.
I can't seem to find the Pentel leads anywhere.

What do other people use? (I always use 0.5mm for black).
And does anyone know where I can get buy some?

Also, has anyone investigated the cost of using a computer in the field using a ruggedised or tablet PC and Ocad and GPS? It would have to be very rugged as I quite often bush bash, get covered in mud and fall over.

Show Profile  The Map Guy Posted: 14 May 2010, 5:27 AM  
I too have found it really hard to get coloured leads. Some specialist Art shops may retain old stock. You may have to import direct from Staedler - maybe the MapShop might like to organise a bulk order on behalf of the O clubs.

I use 0.5mm leads - they are expensive enough as it is. I break more than I use drawing.

Mark Roberts managed to get hold of some leads for me a few years ago, but I think it was before he left to live in Oz.

Show Profile  Svend Posted: 14 May 2010, 11:54 AM  
I have always used 4-colour ballpoint and like Michael a typist eraser.
I also carry with me a set of mechanical pencils with 0.5 leads(Crayola Plus) which can be used on wet film. I don't use them often as I don't work in the rain but I used them today because the trees were wet.
I don't know where I got them because I have had them for at least 20 years.

Show Profile  Michael Posted: 14 May 2010, 12:39 PM  
In the dry: 4-colour Bic with Staedtler typists eraser. (Anyone remember typewriters? MAPsport has a stock of these.)

In the wet: black HB 0.5mm. Funny how the black is so robust compared to the colours. Why do the good things in life (in this case carbon) always turn out to be naughty?

Show Profile  Selwyn Posted: 20 May 2010, 4:14 AM  
After reading some other discussion on, the comments were that Pentel made the best pencil leads, being stronger and more waterproof.
One comment was that "leads must be Hi-polymer. I use Pentel Hi-polymer 0,5 mm colour set with Red, Orange, Yellow, Blue, Green, Pink."

This person was from Eastern Europe where these old Pentel colours were still available in some shops. I searched Google for suppliers in these colours and a few shops turned up but their pages could not be translated into a fashion such that I could reliably order from them.

Pentel now produce only red and blue colours in 0.5mm in the Hi=polymer Ain range.

I recently bought a collection of Pentel leads directly from: in USA. The package arrived within about 5 days with reasonable postage charges. Also bought a few mechanical pencils as well.
The blue and red leads are better than the equivalent Staedtler leads that I get from Gordon Harris. Fortunately Woodhill maps have so few blue features that I now use blue for green.

I have previously tried the many colours produced by Uniball, but the colours are very pastel like, smudge and fade in the sunshine such that if you leave your fieldwork exposed to sun in the car for a day it's hard to decipher you have drawn.

Show Profile  Bryan Posted: 21 May 2010, 12:21 AM  
Thanks for that Selwyn - I thought for a moment I was the only one using waterproof colour leads in the wet - they are far better than just black - they work even with the rain pouring down - when the photocopy underneath starts getting mushy or the sellotape starts separating I know it's time to stop.

I'll order the blue and red 0.5mm.
Did you try, Selwyn?

No one investigating using tablet PC, GPS and OCAD in the field?

Show Profile  Michael Posted: 21 May 2010, 3:32 AM  
Mushy photocopy? Laminate. Sellotape? Electrical tape.

Show Profile  The Map Guy Posted: 21 May 2010, 3:57 AM  
Why not use a OHP (colour) sheet for your base map template? I've been using OHP sheets for well over 10 years.

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