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Mapping

Show Profile  Michael Posted: 11 October 2014, 2:40 PM  
You've probably heard my f-words all over NZ. Using the building tool for a complicated building. In, out, in, out, you're halfway round and you cough and OCAD decides your building is finished. You start again, but your mouse finger has tensed up, and it happens again. And again. Putting in additional points to finish off is not a great solution, a tiny discrepancy from a right angle looks awful. No way to continue the object AFAIK. Must be a simple answer?

Show Profile  Dave N Posted: 11 October 2014, 9:38 PM  
>Or backgrounds that fail to open?
Selwyn figured out, with my help LOL start in Ocad with NZTM grid, save as 8. Open in OOM, open background, save and close. Reopen in Ocad and background was there.
But since then Oc9.42 has opened jpeg/w directly...
But if I get one road jnct in the correct NZTM, a house 2kms away is 500m out. OOMs however seems to be okay.

Re building tool, use building outline and Fill ?

Dave Nevin

Show Profile  Dwayne Posted: 11 October 2014, 10:35 PM  
Michael - try playing around with the trace (ctrl) function. Cut the bad part of the building out first. Then you can start from just before the error and use Ctrl drag to trace the existing line to get the right angle for the rest of the building.
All that remains to do is delete the bit you don't want from the second segment and then merge the two good segments together.
I too have struggled with concentration and finger cramps on the third time around a building...

Show Profile  Michael Posted: 11 October 2014, 11:29 PM  
Thanks Dwayne, looks promising. BTW Svend I didn't thank you for your solution (back on page 45) to reduce the footprint of Google Earth, works a treat.

Show Profile  angelas Posted: 15 October 2014, 10:25 PM  
Hi Michael,
Does the Edit> Join function work well for joining two sections of the same type of line together?

Show Profile  Michael Posted: 16 October 2014, 1:27 AM  
Yes if they are "close enough". But that often trips me up. I don't know of any setting that would make this easier, any advice out there? Is that your problem Angela?

Show Profile  Selwyn Posted: 22 October 2014, 10:28 AM  
It has been a problem to source good drafting film in NZ. I have spent many months trying to source thinner single matt from overseas. Several years ago I bought a large supply from UK which they stated was single matt 50 microns, but when it arrived it was double matt. There's almost none left.
Manufacturers in India, China and Russia were not good at communication or assurance about quality. USA didn't seem to have what I wanted. Finally got another UK manufacturer to respond logically to my description of our fieldwork purpose. Their suggested film was not actually listed on their website, Kernow Coatings.
I sent small sample sizes to Michael W, Mike B, & Paul who were satisfied with its improved clarity and writing/erasing with various writing devices. If it gets wet it goes a bit white, an issue identified by the supplier, but when I scanned it the white didn't interfere with the fieldwork image. To me it's a vast improvement on previous films I have used, especially when using aerial photos as a template.
I have imported 5000 sheets of A4 size.
Product description is:
Drafting film, AQ Clear Single Matt, Code 075DCDS,
75 microns (coating seems to add approx 10 microns).
My intention is to sell this film on to NZ mapping fieldworkers. Selling larger quantities at landed cost now will help me recover from the outlay of about $3000.
The landed cost is about double the price in UK after paying for freight, GST, various customs fees, travel and some re-packaging.
It has come in bundles of 1000 sheets. Rather than counting smaller amounts I can accurately weigh or measure with a micrometer up to about 200 sheets.
My sell price at present is 57 cents per sheet + any freight costs. It would be nice to sell larger orders right now, but 100 sheets will fit into an A4 envelope and weigh about 800 grams, qualifying for $2.40 letter postage.
Next year I will sell for around 65 - 70 cents to deal with my capital outlay and storage.
If you are interested, email me selwyn@palmer.gen.nz and can sort out payment and freight options.
If you are going to Auckland Champs at Labour Weekend. I can find someone else to being your purchase. I am not running Auckland Champs.
Selwyn Palmer (9) 625 7798


This message was edited by Selwyn on 22 October 2014, 10:36 AM

Show Profile  Bryan Posted: 22 October 2014, 1:15 PM  
Is it possible to get a sample I can test?

I was lucky to get a left-over large roll of excellent drafting film from my work but with the mapping I'm currently doing I'll probably run out in several months time. I'm also recycling and keeping the film not used or only partially used. I also have the old sheets (a lot of which are blank) from way back when we didn't use Ocad to print maps.

I may also look at going completely electronic in the field (as Russell has done using hand-held, GPS and momap) but a significant part of my time spent mapping is when it is wet (sometimes pouring rain) and I can do this with drafting film and waterproof pencils. Also a lot of my time is spent
crawling through thick undergrowth.

Show Profile  fraser Posted: 26 October 2014, 8:17 PM  
Any tips for drawing footpaths next to roads, particularly when there are bends, and keeping the footpath the same width, nice and parallel to the road?

Show Profile  Michael Posted: 26 October 2014, 8:55 PM  
There's a "move parallel" tool which does a good job on most curves. Initially draw the footpath, or paving edge line, on the road edge using curve following. Then move it sideways with "move parallel". Ack Martin Peat for this one, there are soooo many things like this that lie hidden.

Show Profile  fraser Posted: 27 October 2014, 9:31 AM  
Thanks Michael. I am using OpenOrienteering which may make a difference. Curve following on a road just picks up the centre line rather than the outer edge, so in this case duplicating the symbol has the same end result. I can hold down Cntrl and constrain the movement to parallel or perpendicular, but when the curve is a C shape it gets more complex and requires some scaling or something else to keep the path the same width from the edge of the road. Any further suggestions?

Show Profile  Selwyn Posted: 27 October 2014, 11:00 PM  
Bryan, I have wondered about about going fully electronic also. But I'm a bit dubious about carrying the extra weight on my increasingly disabled fingers all day.
I do have some spare sample sheets. Can post to you in A5 size for testing. Email me with an address to post to. selwyn@palmer.gen.nz

Show Profile  Paul I Posted: 28 October 2014, 8:48 AM  
Perfect parallel objects were an interesting exercise...
Five simple steps, In ocad 11 at least;
1) Select your object (curved road etc).
2) Select Fill/Make Border symbol (yes that's weird)
3) Select new desired Symbol)
4) Select Move Parallel
(Pointer then shows Parallel Mode)
5) Grab any point and do some amazing magic where it auto scales everything to whatever distance apart you want.


NOTE: edited to simpler method

This message was edited by Paul I on 28 October 2014, 1:28 PM

Show Profile  Paul I Posted: 28 October 2014, 8:51 AM  
oh I didn't see your above post on this Michael!

Show Profile  MikeB Posted: 28 October 2014, 10:17 AM  
Paul you must have felt like a mountain goat at times out at Kawakawa Bay particularly in the native bush. I'd be interested to know who long it all took to fieldwork and how good were the contours from Stewart. The farmland was probably ok but the native often leaves a lot to be desired.
Did you use a GPS at all?


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